Your Washing Machine Won't Turn On

Water supply or door lock failures tend to be the most common causes of this problem. Both these aspects must therefore be checked when trying to find the source of the issue.

THE POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR THIS FAULT:

• A power supply issue

• Wash programme not properly selected

• Door no longer closing properly

• A water supply fault

• The door safety lock is faulty

• The solenoid valve is damaged

• The heating element is defective

• The motor is no longer working

• The circuit board is defective

The washing machine is not being supplied with electricity

If your washing machine will not turn on at all, the first obvious thing to check is the electricity supply. Is the appliance properly plugged into the mains? Is there any current present? To test the socket, plug a different appliance in and check that it switches on okay. If it doesn't, a circuit breaker may have tripped. If the socket is working fine, unplug the washing machine for 20 minutes then try again.

The wash programme has not been properly selected

Another easy thing to check is whether the wash programme has been properly selected or not. If your washing machine is equipped with a rotary dial type programme selector, check it isn't stuck between two programmes. Also check that the "Start" button has been pressed, if the machine is equipped with one. Additionally, check you haven't set the programme on delayed start. If some programmes do work when you turn the selector dial, there is a strong possibility the selector is damaged. If this is the case, replace it.

The door will no longer close properly

To prevent the washing machine opening when it still has water inside, the door is equipped with a safety lock system. This stops the washing machine from starting if the door is not properly closed. Check, therefore, that the door is firmly closed. If you feel any resistance, this could mean the door seal is a little misaligned. Therefore, ensure it is properly in place.

There is a water supply fault

If you can hear a slight vibration or a humming sound when the solenoid valve operates, examine the water supply valve and check it is fully turned on and that there are no bends or kinks in the hose. Pay particular attention to self-tapping or rapid fit valves. If these are badly installed, the water will flow very slowy into the washing machine and the filling process could take several minutes. If, after carrying out these checks, the water is still not flowing, check that the filter at the machine end of the hose is not blocked. If it is, clean it.

The door safety lock is faulty

Your washing machine is equipped with a safety system that prevents the door from being opened while the machine is operating. However, this component can fail, necessitating its replacement. Changing it is quite easy. On the majority of machines, the safety system consists of a contact switch activated by the door catch and which enables the washing machine to operate. If your washing machine's lock indicator light is no longer coming on, the door safety lock will very likely be the source of the problem. To test this safety component to see if it's working or not, first unplug the machine from the mains. Then try connecting the two contact points on the lock switch with a piece of electric wire. If, after plugging it back in, your machine will now start, this will be an indication that it is indeed the safety lock that is no longer working, so it will need to be replaced.

The solenoid valve is damaged

The solenoid valve acts as an electric tap. It controls the supply of water to the washing machine. You can check whether the solenoid is in good condition or not by disconnecting its connectors and placing the probes of a multimeter on each of its terminals. It should give a reading of around 4 kilo ohms. Also check the state of the filter located between the water supply hose and the solenoid valve to see whether it's blocked. If necessary, replace it.

The heating element is defective

Some appliances begin the wash cycle with a heating phase once they've filled with water. If the heating element is defective, the appliance will stop at this point. You can test the heating element using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode. First locate the element, which can normally be found close to the NTC temperature sensor beneath the washing machine's tub. Disconnect the connectors and place the two probes of the multimeter on the heating element's two terminals to check for continuity (it should give a reading of around 30 ohms). If the test shows there is no continuity, replace the element.

The motor is no longer working

The motor enables the drum to turn. If the thermal cut out on the motor on your washing machine is defective, the motor will no longer operate. If your motor is equipped with carbon brushes, check their condition. They should be at least 1 cm long.

The circuit board is defective

The circuit board, or power module, manages all the functions of your washing machine (motor, heating, water, etc.). If everything else has already been checked, it may be the module that needs replacing. This could be a costly operation, however, so make sure you carefully check everything else before focussing your attention on the circuit board.